Molecules of Spices

The London based magazine, Restaurant  had recently released it's annual list of Top 100 Restaurants in the world for 2014 and not a single restaurant from India made into the list. That was rather surprising as India's culinary stories have always made headlines every now and then all over the world. Indian cuisine has been one of its soft powers. The land that introduced many spices including the ubiquitous pepper to the world has been often ignored in such listings. One wonders what could be the reason for such aberrations. Though I do not want to sound like sour grapes, the reason cannot solely be the lack of world class chefs or restaurants in India. It probably has more to do with the inability of the world media to go beyond the preconceived notions of what constitutes Indian cuisine. Or perhaps, it is the tendency of the chefs and restaurateurs to give in to such presumptions and dish out only the so called staples.

The evolution of this cuisine dates back to thousands of years. It's long history and the vast variety actually make the very name "Indian cuisine" a misnomer. A discussion of this culinary journey along with the many sub-cuisines is a topic for another blog post altogether. The parameters for judging the restaurants for such lists and the constitution of judges are questions of another debate as well. Although, we cannot ignore the importance given to modern techniques and fresh interpretation of old food in such rankings.

Have Indian restaurants lagged behind in terms of modernization and experimentation? Well, maybe. To say that people are not ready for this is both right and wrong. The well travelled urban Indian can develop a refined palette to appreciate the nuances of food. Yet, when it comes to Indian food, he prefers the comfort of tradition.

Molecular gastronomy, the latest fad in the food circles makes the kitchen seem more like a science lab. Liquid nitogen, syringes, PH meters, distilleries are some of the commonly used instruments (cannot fathom calling these utensils!) in this style of experimental cuisine. The result is nothing less than a magical visual treat, a dish that is supposed to challenge our senses and give us a totally new emotional experience! But, can it ever beat the unique experience of devouring the desi food by hand and that of 'ungliya chaatna' licking the fingers? Hmm..

One of the restaurants in the top 50 is a restaurant from Bangkok, Gaggan. The chef, Gaggan Anand has  taken the world's best Indian restaurant out of India! He is now known all over for his avant garde take on Indian cuisine. Here is a picture of  'Dhokla Snow'. A molecular gastronomy version of the down to earth Dhokla made famous by this man.




This new trend seems to have taken over the culinary world by storm. Well, let's hope the simplicity and authenticity of the ingredients are not lost because of an overwhelming urge to novelize. Never mind the visual showmanship, food is after all what it tastes. But for now, can't wait to see more of these visual surprises. Can you hear Indian Chefs? We too are ready...take us down this molecular gastronomy ride. Forget the Tandoori Chicken. How about deconstructed Biryani?

Do you plan to check out this restaurant the next time you are in Bangkok? Here is the link.. http://www.eatatgaggan.com/



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